La Maddalena
A road runs all around the island's perimeter, 45 kilometres of breath-taking views: granite and porphyry delimit jagged sections, lonely coves, silent coves, white beaches and turquoise sea, with rolling hills inland. La Maddalena is the big sister to about 60 islands and islets that make up the largest archipelago of Gallura and Sardinia, protected by the national park established in 1994, an unspoilt marvel of the Mediterranean. The island is the ideal destination for holidays characterized by natural beauty: three kilometres from the inhabited paths through the Mediterranean scrub will let you discover the fjord of Cala Francese, famous for a precious granite quarry, a source of wealth for centuries. In the south, along the Padule road, you reach the Nido d'Aquila, near the military fort. Not far away is another marvel of sand and smooth rocks, Punta Tegge. To the north lie are bays made of fine white sand dunes, surrounded by rocks shaped by time: Cala Lunga, Monti d'Arena and Bassa Trinita, a beach surmounted by an eighteenth-century church, a place of heartfelt devotion. In the east you will admire the delightful Spalmatore cove: cream-colored sand framed by Mediterranean vegetation and embellished with pink rocks.
The island, inhabited in prehistoric times, was abandoned by the fall of the Western Roman Empire until the seventeenth century, when a colony of Corsican shepherds settled there founding the current community. Its strategic position, an obligatory passage in the Bonifacio straits, made it a military outpost, of which today's fortifications can be seen, and attracted, among others, Napoleon Bonaparte, after being fought off by the fleet led by Maddalena native Domenico Millelire (1793). It has long been a base for the Italian and US Navy, although the base was permanently abandoned at the beginning of 2008. US submarines stopped over in Santo Stefano, the fourth largest island in the archipelago. Today, La Maddalena houses a school for lieutenants and is home to a maritime compartment. The town, unique in the archipelago, is populated by over eleven thousand inhabitants. Its port overlooks Palau, from which it is 15 minutes by ferry. The stone-paved alleyways of the centre open onto 18th century buildings, including the Santa Maria Maddalena parish church. Its sacristy hosts the diocesan museum of holy art, where the treasure of the patron saint is displayed, including the crucifix and two silver candlesticks donated by Admiral Nelson (1804). This is the heart of the town's historical memory. The small harbour of Cala Gavetta has a statue of Giuseppe Garibaldi, who lived out his last 26 years in Caprera, linked to La Maddalena by the Passo della Moneta, and famous for the Compendio Museale Garibaldino. The second largest island of the archipelago was Garibaldi's 'garden', famous today for the Compendio garibaldino, the most visited museum in Sardinia. The uncontaminated green is surrounded by beautiful coves, one more beautiful than the other: Coticcio cove, the Sardinian Tahiti, Cala Due dei Due and the beach of the Relitto. In Stagnali, a military village during the world wars and today an environmental education centre, there is the naturalistic geomineralogic museum, where you can admire rocks and rare minerals, such as huge quartz crystals, beach sands and fossils. In the town you can continue the cultural tour in the museum of the Sea and the naval archaeological museum named after Nino Lamboglia, dedicated to the wreck of Spargi, a Roman cargo ship, which shipwrecked in the waters of the splendid third Maddalena island around 120 BC. You will see the reconstruction of the split of the hull rebuilt to scale, containing the 200 wine amphorae and canteen vases found in the seabed. As well as diving, Spargi offers you masterpieces of nature, among which Cala Corsara stands out , a bouquet of four impalpable sandy coves surrounded by junipers, brooms and sea lilies. From the port of La Maddalena you can set out by boat to discover the other islands of the park: next to it is Santo Stefano, dotted with coves, granite quarries and accommodation facilities; to the north-west Budelli, famous for the mythical (and inaccessible) pink beach, set of Antonioni's 'Red Desert'; in the far north the beautiful Razzoli and Santa Maria; to the south, facing the Costa Smeralda, the granitic islands of Bisce and Mortorio. home to rare birdlife.
Orosei
An enchanted place that combines the magic of the mountains with uncontaminated coastal beauties: its gulf, together with the Gennargentu massif, is a regional park. Orosei is a town in the Baronie area with seven thousand inhabitants, lying in the Cedrino valley, two and a half kilometres from the sea. The economy is based on agriculture, marble extraction and, above all, accommodation facilities and tourism.
The coast, beautiful by day and animated on summer nights, is twenty kilometres long: white sand alternating with cliffs. In every beach, you will feel an unstoppable urge to dive into the water. Like at Cala Liberotto, 11 kilometres from the centre, an emerald bay loved by surfers and diving enthusiasts and characterized by delightful beaches with turquoise sea, such as sas Linnas Siccas and sa Curcurica. Behind it lies the pond of sos Alinos, the habitat of resident and migratory birds. Not far away is Cala Ginepro, with soft sand mixed with smooth pebbles. Near the town is the Orosei Marina, a beautiful five kilometre long beach with enchanting stretches like su Barone. More jewels to the south are the wide and long beach on Petrosu and Cala di Osalla, a golden expanse surrounded by greenery half way to Dorgali, known for its ideal diving grounds. Meanwhile to the north is Fuile 'e Mare, protected by pine forests, Mattanosa, with white and pink sand and the oasis of Bidderosa, a stunning natural paradise: five white and fine sandy coves overlooking the emerald sea. The beach is framed by eucalyptus trees, junipers and Mediterranean plants.
The historic centre of Orosei is dotted with churches - 17 consecrated ones - including the baroque parish church of San Giacomo, celebrated on July 25th, the church of Le Anime, with an 18th century wooden pulpit, and the church of Sant'Antonio, with frescoes from the 1400s, next to which the fires of Sant'Antonio Abate are lit on January 16th. There is also a tower dedicated to the saint, a reminder of when Urisè was the main centre of his curia. The first settlement was Roman (Fanum Orisi), in the 2nd century AD, while the most significant prehistoric remains are the Rampinu Nuragheand the village of sa Linnarta. Don't miss Sa Prejone vetza (the old Spanish prison) and the Don Nanni Guiso museum, which collects miniature theatres from all over Europe, housed in the Palatzos Vetzos, where there is also a portrait of Alberto Moravia by Pier Paolo Pasolini. The festivals have deep roots in the past, especially the rites of Holy Week: sos Sepurcros, the via crucis and s'Incontru at Easter. In May the town celebrates Sant'Isidoro and Santa Maria 'e Mare with characteristic processions. In the festivals the flavours of the sea stand out in an exceptional dessert: the seadas sprinkled with golden strawberry-tree honey.
Costa Rei
Reaching Costa Rei means visiting one of the most beautiful areas of Sardinia: the Sarrabus. The beauty of this area is enhanced by the profile of the Sette Fratelli mountain range overlooking the Park, a valuable nature reserve and perfect place for relaxing walks. Ensconced between the mountains and lush hills and a many hued blue sea, enchanting spots in Costa Rei are at times hidden from view by luxuriant Mediterranean brush. Such is the case of Cala Pira, a small bay surrounded by dunes covered with fragrant juniper trees made even more beautiful by the austere silhouette of the Aragonese tower overlooking an extremely transparent sea.
Enclosed between two small cliffs and protected by a thick pine forest, the white beach of Cala Sinzias is located not far from the town of Costa Rei; an attractive tourist resort over a long stretch of fine white sand bordering an emerald green to deep blue sea. 10 awesome kilometers of sandy beach, ideal for any vacation, thanks to shallow waters and a wide variety of tourist services, including excellent hotels and restaurants.
Behind Costa Rei, a fertile agricultural area offers a large variety of excellent organic products. These fields were once tilled by semi-free prisoners; you should visit the Castiadas Penal Colony there, an 1877 building turned cultural center and museum.
Nearby is Muravera, a lively town that offers exquisite hospitality, and not only during the summer. This town, particularly committed to promoting traditional culture, shares the endless variations of the history and folklore of this area in the spring with the Citrus Festival.
Sant'Antioco
A town of coloured houses and restaurants that inebriate the air with inviting scents: the seaside soul of Sant'Antioco. This well-known town of the Sulcis archipelago, populated by eleven thousand residents and tens of thousands of visitors in the summer, is the main centre of the largest island of Sardinia, which is connected by an artificial isthmus, built perhaps by the Carthaginians and completed by the Romans. Its resources are fishing, salt and agriculture, as shown by the ethnographic museum su Magasinu de su binu. Local industries include weaving, processing byssus, which has its own museum, and building wooden boats. The MuMa museum summarises maritime history and traditions, including the Lateen sail. The town was originally known as Sulky, founded by the Phoenicians (770 BC), and later conquered by the Carthaginians. Traces of the early town remain in the form of a tophet and necropolis (5th-3rd century BC) that occupies the entire hill of the basilica and on which the Roman necropolis arose, followed by a cemetery of catacombs, unique in Sardinia. Sulci rose to its maximum splendour in Roman times: together with Karalis it was the most prosperous municipium of the island. In the centre you can admire the sa Presonedda mausoleum (1st century BC), which shows the influence of both Carthaginian and Roman cultures. The island has been inhabited since the 3rd millennium BC, and has left prenuragic remains, such as the domus de Janas of is Pruinis and the menhirs of sa Mongia and su Para, as well as the ruins of about thirty nuraghes, including the impressive s'Ega de Marteddu, Corongiu Murvonis and Antiogu Diana. Nearby there are sacred springs and giants' tombs, including su Niu' and on Crobu. The Grutt'i acqua complex is extraordinary, consisting of a polylobed nuraghe, a sacred well, a village with hydraulic works, walls, megalithic circles and caves for water collection. The village reaches as far as Portu Sciusciau, a possible nuragic harbour. You can admire the findings from the area, especially bronzes, in the F. Barreca archaeological museum.
The name of island and town derives from the patron saint of Sardinia, an African martyr exiled to the island, to whom the basilica di Sant'Antioco, mentioned the first time in 1089, although Sulci was the bishop's seat from 484 (up until the 13th century). Originally the building had a Byzantine cruciform layout; today it has three naves with as many apses. The eternal bond with the saint is renewed 15 days after Easter, with the oldest Sardinian religious festival that has remained the same since 1615. Between the 16th and 17th centuries, the uninhabited island was invaded by thousands of worshippers celebrating the martyr. These days, the Saturday before sa Festa manna hosts the parade of is coccois (ceremonial bread), while another festival for the saint is held on 1st August with a parade in traditional clothes.
The coasts, high and jagged to the south with dark trachyte cliffs and more sandy to the north, have ideal depths for diving. Portixeddu is the nearest beach to the town, surrounded by light rocks and rare Phoenician junipers, secular dwarf palms and Mediterranean plants. It is made of pebbles, like the larger beach at Turri. Maladroxa on the other hand is an expanse of grey, thin sand, with thermal waters springing from the sea bed, known and exploited by the Romans. After passing the Serra de is tres Portus promontory and the pond of Santa Caterina, where black-winged stilts and flamingos nest, you will arrive at the wide and winding beach of Coqquaddus. On the cliffs of Is Praneddas (or Arco 'dei Baci') you can stand on a terrace 200 metres above the sea. As early as Phoenician times, fishermen fished for tuna off the flat rocks white with salt at Cala Sapone. Today you can see the ruins of the nineteenth-century tonnara. Nearby are other suggestive bays: the coves of Grotta and Signora. Capo Sperone is the extreme point to the south, with iridescent blue sea and expanses of pink peonies. In the background lie the islets of Vacca and Toro, protected areas where the Eleonora's falcon flies, and where the naval battle between Roman and Sardinian-Carthaginian fleets took place (258 BC). Further along you can find the lonely beach of s'Ega de is Tirias, from which you can visit the wild coast by mountain bike or boat to Portu de su Trigu.
Santa Maria Navarrese
By the time you get to Santa Maria Navarrese, you will have been enchanted by the romantic streets near the coast bordered by turquoise water, with benches that invite contemplation and white sails silhouetted out in the sea.
The church of Santa Maria of Navarra, dating from the eleventh century, and the Spanish tower, built in the seventeenth century to guard the coast, represent the historical memory of the town. Under the shade of pine trees and dominated by the tower, the terrace overlooking the gulf offers a view of the marina to be enchanted by. The legend attributes the name of the ancient church to the princess of Navarra who ordered its construction to express her gratitude to the Virgin Mary.
As for the most beautiful places in the vicinity, we recommend Cala Sisine Beach, the pearl of the Gulf of Orosei, with large grains of sand and two imposing rocky outcrops on either side, and also the shallow waters of Cala Mariolu, Cala Follo, Cala Goloritzè, with turquoise waters and super white sand, and Cala Luna, considered to be one of the most beautiful Mediterranean beaches.
The Mediterranean brush, gathered in a thick wood of oak, juniper and pine tree, looks over the cliffs to the bold brushstrokes of the sea. Mouflons, Eleonora's falcons, golden eagles and seagulls chose this place that is still wild and rugged to breed.
Nearby is the incomparable beauty of the wild Baunei landscape: limestone ramparts rising steeply from the sea, sea expanses of indescribable splendor and waters as green as fresh sprouts and as blue as the sky make of this resort a must see destination.
Villasimius
The intense colours of the sea, the glimmering crystal-clear water, granite cliffs, enchanting coves, long stretches of beach, lagoons and verdant hills, some of them are the settings of TV ads and all of them are breathtaking. Villasimius is the ‘pearl’ of the south, the kind of tourist resort every vacationer dreams of, with a population of less than 4,000 during winter that blossoms to several tens of thousands in summer. The coastline is graced with a crown of beaches interspersed with inlets and the Capo Carbonara promontory. Along the panoramic road starting at Capo Boi, the southernmost point of the protected Marine Area, are the wonderful beaches of Porto sa Ruxi, Campus and Campulongu, all blessed with gorgeous blue seas and white sandy beaches framed by Mediterranean brush. Not far from town is the unusual spiaggia del Riso beach, remarkable for its rice-shaped sand. Past the modern-day tourist harbour, on the western side of Capo Carbonara, are inlets nestled between the cliffs, including Cala Caterina. On the eastern side are other breathtaking gems of the seashore, starting with Porto Giunco, and behind it the stagno di Notteri marshes where pink flamingos and other rare species of wild birds nest. From high up on the promontory that looks out over it, home to an Aragonese tower built by Spaniards, is an amazing panorama with will linger in your mind, your heart and your pictures for ever: an endless field of shades of blue, two seas divided by a narrow strip of white sand that looks like powdered sugar. Further north are the beaches of Simius and Traias, followed by Rio Trottu and Manunzas, that provide the backdrop for Punta Molentis, another ‘gem’ of Villasimius. From Capo Boi to the Island of Serpentara, the isola dei Cavoli and shoals that are the resting places of shipwrecks from all eras, the Capo Carbonara marine reserve is rich in underwater treasures: dense schools of fish move like weightless clouds over meadows of gently waving sea grass, over bastions, into valleys and channels coloured yellow by sea daisies and red by sea fans.
Back on land you can go shopping, enjoy delicious seafood, visit museums and pick over archaeological sites. Go see remains dating to the Nuragic age, tour the Accu Is Traias (I century BCE – III century CE) and Cruccuris (I-II CE) necropoles near the roman baths of Santa Maria, and the Cuccureddus site, an early Phoenician-Punic settlement later taken over by the Romans. And don’t miss the archaeological museum, with displays about the treasures that lie at the bottom of the sea. One of these, the statue of the Virgin of the Sea, lies on the bottom near Cavoli island. It was sculpted by Pinuccio Sciola and every year in late July they have the Festa della Madonna del Naufrago to commemorate those who lost their lives at sea with a procession that leads to the water’s edge.
Bosa
Bosa is a fabulous village where history and modernity come together generating curiosity and fascination.
The Old Village, also known as Sa Costa, lies around the Serravalle Castle, built by the Malaspinas between the twelfth and thirteenth centuries. Easily accessible on foot, it will reward you by showing you the charm of the town from a scenic location that will remain forever in your memory.
Bosa Marina is instead the beach resort most loved by tourists according to Blue Guide 2015, which gives it a record 5 sails including it among the places with the most beautiful sea. The poetic Lungotemo promenade with the Ponte Vecchio and the beaches of S'Abba Druche, Portu Managu, Turas and Cumpoltitu make it one of the most renowned places for natural beauty.
Bosa is also a place of great culinary and craftsmanship tradition that welcomes you with a fine glass of Malvasia. The excellences of the village include jewelry from coral fished in the sea, baskets of Asphodel, fabrics and the filet of ancient feminine knowledge.
You will find many churches and monuments in the Village. Spend a little time at the Church of the Immaculate Conception, the town's Cathedral, featuring beautiful frescoes. Within the walls of Serravalle castle stands the church of Our Lady de Sos Regnos Altos, embellished with a set of frescoes dating back to 1370. The Romanesque church of San Pietro Extramuros stands a short distance from the village, in the rural locality of Calmedia. Make sure to take a stroll in the medieval district of Sa Costa and take pictures of Sa funtana manna, a nineteenth century monument made of red trachyte.
If you enjoy hiking or birdwatching, you will love the natural wealth offered by Capo Marrargiu Bio-marine Park and the Nature Reserve of Badde Aggiosu, Marrargiu and Monte Mannu.
Bosa is also famous for its Carnival, known as Karrasegare. The "S'Attitidu" procession features a group of black masks lamenting theatrically while holding a doll in their arms, symbolizing the newly born holiday.
Castelsardo
It may have been the legendary Tibula of Roman times, but by the Middle Ages it was already an impenetrable centuries-old fortress protected by thick walls and 17 towers, until the advent of modern weaponry. The original nucleus of Castelsardo grew up around the castle of the Dorias, which tradition dates to 1102, although it was probably constructed in the late XIII century. Today it is the seat of the lovely Museo dell’Intreccio Mediterraneo (or Museum of the Crossroads of the Mediterranean), one of the most visited museums in all of Sardinia. In the early XVI century the castle was renamed Castillo Aragonés and became the seat of the bishopric until the Cathedral of Sant’Antonio Abate was built in 1586. This amazing building has a bell tower perched over the sea, is graced with a gleaming ceramic dome and houses crypts in the basement, which in turn are home to the Maestro di Castelsardo museum. During the reign of the Savoy dynasty, the town was given the name it has today. It belongs to the Most Beautiful Towns of Italy Association and its noble fortifications – the bastions and steep stairs – remain intact. The city tour includes not-to-be-missed visits of its religious and historical buildings, like the Church of Santa Maria delle Grazie, the Benedictine monastery, the bishopric, palazzo La Loggia, which since 1111 has served as City Hall, and the Palazzo Eleonora d’Arborea.
The town’s most characteristic events take place during Holy Week, when religious rites with a Spanish flair involve just about everyone. Lunissanti, on the Monday after Palm Sunday, is heartfelt and picturesque, especially at dawn when a long procession heads towards the Basilica of Nostra Signora di Tergu. After sundown, the town is illuminated by torches and sacred chanting fills the air. The Prucissioni that take place on Holy Thursday and the Lu Lcravamentu on Friday are also not to be missed. The town celebrates its patron saint, St. Anthony, on 17 January with great bonfires. But there is more to this town than cultural tradition, there are archaeological sites and natural monuments to be visited as well: the nuraghe Paddaju, the pre-Nuragic megalithic walls at Monte Ossoni and, just four kilometres from town, the domus de Janas, raised bull horn decorations and the roccia dell’Elefante. This stretch of shoreline is made predominantly of high red bluffs, but there are some beaches too, including Marina di Castelsardo, at the entrance to town, and Lu Bagnu beach, some two and a half kilometres away and protected by cliffs topped with green. The sandy shore boasts crystal clear water dotted with flat rocks. Windsurf and sailing enthusiasts should not miss punta La Capra, a natural pool set between the sea and the shore. Local restaurants feature fresh catch: lobster, crayfish, crab, sea urchin and shellfish.
Cala Gonone
History and archaeology, traditions and craftsmanship, gorgeous seas and the mountain wilderness of the Supramonte, covered in a mantle of fragrant woods, will guide you into a magic legendary world. Dorgali boasts 225 square kilometres of wilderness, one of Sardinia’s largest and most beautiful areas. Along the characteristic streets of the historical centre you will stroll past houses made of volcanic rock and boutiques featuring delicate filigree jewellery and ceramics that, along with rugs, exemplify the artisanal vocation of this town. The churches of San Lussurio, of the Madonna d’Itria and Santa Caterina bear witness to the religion so heartfelt by its people. You will take a journey back in time at the archaeological museum, where relics from the Nuragic Age (especially those from the Nuragic village-sanctuary of Serra Òrrios) and from the Punic and Roman eras are on display. Not far from town are trails that lead hikers to the valle di Lanaittu, and through the legendary Tiscali Village, the defensive fortress built to hold off the advancing Romans.
Outside of town, just after a short tunnel, is a veritable gateway between the mountains and the sea, your eyes will gaze over the spectacular view of the Gulf of Orosei. A windy dirt path will take you down to Cala Gonone, famous for its coves and inlets, the destination of nature lovers, adventurers and romantic boating excursions. It sits on a steep hill that runs down to the water’s edge, where beaches of golden sand like Cala Cartoe, Ziu Martine e Cala Osalla offer quiet relaxation. By boat, or a strenuous hike, you can reach Cala Luna, which borders on Baunei, one of the Mediterranean’s most enchanting beaches. Graced with a beach of almost powdery sand and surrounded by blooming oleander trees it was the setting for the Lina Wertmüller cult film Swept Away. Further inland is the Codula di Luna, a deep gorge of steep walls and ancient juniper trees that have always acted as guardians of the beauty of this place. A guided excursion from Cala Gonone will take you to see the famous natural Grotte del Bue Marino, a series of grottoes that are home to ‘forests’ of stalagmites and stalactites, an underground saline lake and once the dwelling of the Monk seal. During the Cala Gonone Jazz event, the grotto becomes the venue of a truly unique, and spectacular, concert. And speaking of marine biology, don’t miss a chance to visit the aquarium in the town of Cala Gonone.
Cagliari
Picturesque historical districts with sea views, elegant shopping streets and panoramic terraces, including the bastione di Santa Croce, a great place for a romantic evening after a fiery sunset. Cagliari is Sardinia’s main and most populous city, at the centre of an urban area that counts 430,000 inhabitants (150,000 of them in the capital city alone) as well as the island’s gateway port and main Mediterranean cruise liner hub. The city’s history goes back thousands of years, from pre-historic times to the reign of the Savoy. The Castello quarter sits perched on its highest hill and boasts ancient bastions that today are the heart and soul of nightlife, and picturesque streets lined by grand old homes: Palazzo Regio and Palazzo di Città, as well as the Cathedral of Santa Maria. The medieval towers - dell’Elefante and San Pancrazio - that stand guard at the entrance to the castle are well worth notice. Villanova connects to the Castle quarter via the stairway of the bastione di Saint Remy. A passionate air of religious devotion takes over the quarter every year at Easter, during Holy Week, while during the rest of the year the elegant boutiques and churches welcome you with somewhat less ado: the cloister of San Domenico, the Church of San Saturnio, and the Basilica di Nostra Signora di Bonaria, the Christian temple of Sardinia. Below Castello you’ll find the Marina quarter, which will impress you with lovely buildings and the porticos of Via Roma, including the Palazzo Civico. Settled as a village of fishermen and merchants, it is the symbol of the town’s multi-ethnicity. Here you will find the Church of Sant’Eulalia, home to precious remains from the Roman era. The Stampace quarter is the venue of the colourful yearly festival of Sant’Efisio in May, an event the entire island enjoys. Its narrow streets are home to the baroque Church of Sant’Anna. Don’t forget to visit the nearby Anfiteatro, one of Sardinia’s most important Roman ruins, and the Botanical gardens, a green oasis in the city’s centre. Just outside of town is the Castle of San Michele and Tuvixeddu, the Mediterranean’s largest Phoenician-Punic necropolis (VI-III century BCE). When you are ready to surround yourself with nature, you can head towards a thousand different natural attractions: the Cagliari lagoon, the Molentargius-Saline park, which you can visit on a mountain bike, to see the pink flamingos take flight, and, of course, the sea. Take a dip at Poetto, the city’s 8 km long soft sandy beach along which there is a walking trail and cycling path. Even at night, when it reveals its more glamorous side, it is a delight. You can take an excursion to Calamosca and Sella del Diavolo from Poetto. And, finally, there is the local cuisine to be enjoyed, spaghetti with bottarga (cured mullet or tuna roe) and artichokes, burrida made with catshark and walnuts, and fregula con cocciula, balls of semola with clams.