Discovering the heart of Sardinia
From September to december, for 15 weekends, 32 Nuorese centers will enliven the 'Autunno in Barbagia 2024', where authentic and traditional knowledge and flavours are protagonists
Skilled hands embroider clothes and rugs on frames, make su filindeu and other traditional pasta and decorate su pani pintau, those of sos maistos carefully craft ceramic vases, add intarsia to arresolzas and create filigree jewels. In the kitchen of the cortes su carasau are slipped into the oven and pan’e saba, pistiddu and durchicheddos are stuffed. Woodworkers cut the wood to build sas cascias, ironmongers skilfully hammer their wares, farmers crush freshly harvested grapes and shepherds make ricotta cheese. Meanwhile, guests leaning out over the belvedere sample tasty nibbles with full-bodied wine. And they chat to craftsmen, learning about the traditions of the past. Autumn in Barbagia is a trip into the “heart” of Sardinia, an itinerant exhibition of authentic traditions of the Barbagia area. For four months, weekends will see cultural, artisanal traditions and local food and wine showcased. All within the houses “a corte” in villages and towns. Each community with its own speciality.
One starts at Bitti, the homeland of canto a Tenore, a UNESCO heritage. Here the Nuragic civilisation built a unique monument: the sanctuary-village Romanzesu. One then moves onto Oliena: its warm hospitality will take you to discover places that are preserved in time and old churches, textiles and filigree jewellery, pecorino and Nepente. Then Sarule, famous for its fine colourful rugs. During the same weekend there is Austis, a town where the skills and traditions of neighbouring areas meet. The following weekend, three towns are on show: Orani, the land of skilled artisans, great artists and intellectuals; Lollove, whose aura of mystery and surreal silence has inspired many great writers, and Dorgali, where the mountains of the Supramonte meet the crystal-clear water of the coastal village of Cala Gonone: you will discover an exceptional variety of landscapes and attractions. Three more towns come as protagonists during the first weekend of October. Lula, lying at the feet of the huge chalky Monte Albo, the site of prehistoric treasures, industrial archaeology and ancient churches; Orotelli, the land of sos cambales, traditional handmade leather boots, and Meana Sardo, a village full of legends on the janas, with arched front doors and Spanish-style window frames
October continues with Tonara, the village of nougat and cowbells (sonaggias), a place to enjoy walks in age-old woods; Onanì, where, next to the Santu Pretu nuraghe, the church of San Pietro was built in the 11th century, and Gavoi, a village nestled between mountains and the lake of Gusana. Writers and artists perform on the balconies of its stone houses during the Island of Stories festival. The second half of the month welcomes the natural wonders of Orgosolo: the su Suercone chasm and the canyon Gorropu. Murales decorate its houses, creating an open-air museum. At Sorgono, you will discover the extraordinary line of menhirs of Biru e’ Concas. The immense natural heritage of Belvì unfolds between chalky tacchi and Gennargentu. It is the town of is caschettes, delicious cakes for brides. October ends with the fairy-tale landscapes of Aritzo, with woods of chestnuts and carapigna (a delicious sorbet), and with the carnival masks of Boes and Merdules of Ottana, another place that is famous for its artisanal traditions.
November starts with Desulo, that excels in textile craftsmanship, especially finely embroidered shawls, and with Mamoiada: here you will enjoy the intense scent of the vines. It is the land of wine, that will share with you the ancestral rites of Mamuthones and Issohadores. On foot, riding bicycles or on horseback, you will discover the paths of the shepherds. At Ovodda untouched nature, clean air and a healthy climate make this the “village of centenarians”. During the same days, the architectural jewels of the village of graduates, Olzai, are on display. A town symbolising culture and tradition, Nuoro is the Athens of Sardinia. You will enjoy a cultural itinerary around the town's museums, overlooked by mount Ortobene. At Tiana, genuine products and a sense of community contribute to a healthy and lengthy life. It is famous for its mills and fulling-mills where orbace, Sardinian coarse woollen cloth, is made. Towards the end of November it is the turn of the colours and light of Atzara. Hiding in a labyrinth of alleys, you will find medieval houses with façades sculpted by sos picapedres. You gaze onto endless vineyards and cherry trees that have inspired many artists. It is also the turn of Lodine, land of woods, springs and natural monuments, and Ollolai, that according to legend was the abode of Hospito, the king of Barbagia (6th century). Admire its asphodel baskets woven by local women, and s’istrumpa, a form of wrestling perhaps of Nuragic origin.
Nature, mines and artistic expressions inaugurate December. The wealth of Funtana Raminosa lies behind the history of Gadoni: the Nuragic civilisation extracted copper here, the Cartaginians and the Romans created mines that were re-used in modern times. Following the paths, surrounded by mountains and forests, you will discover magical sights such as the small s’Istiddiosa waterfall. At Oniferi you will be impressed by the popular tradition of canto a tenore that ranges from religious solemnity to romantic melancholy. For the Feast of the Immaculate Conception, it is time to turn to the highest village on the island, Fonni, a ski resort where each season has a distinctive colour: peonies, dog roses and purple foxglove frame autumn. The hydraulic engineering of Gremanu and the necropolis of Madau are the main Nuragic sites. Over the same period the Mui Muscas park, the kingdom of the Sardinian ass, shines in Ortueri, and the very tall bell tower of the church of San Nicolò. The tour ends at Orune, with its cork harvest and an extraordinary concentration of prehistoric sites, including the spectacular Nuragic sacred well su Tempiesu.
