A small white jewel that hides its age and harbours ancient traces of devotion and religious fervour. The church of Santa Maria Iscalas stands on a plateau at the foot of Mount sa Costanza, about six kilometres from Cossoine, set in a captivating landscape where it stands out, thanks to its white limestone ashlars that contrast with the green of the surrounding woods and valleys. There are various theories about its origin: it may have been built around the 11th century by Camaldolese monks, while others consider it to be more ancient, dating back to the 6th century. It is likely that various construction phases followed one another and the current late-Byzantine forms were based on pre-existing early medieval buildings.
The name iscalas (steps) refers to the difficulty of the route that connected the village and the church, located about 600 metres above sea level. The steep slope and the effort it involved led the Cossoine people to compare the path to climbing a ladder. The sanctuary has a cross-shaped layout with arms pointing towards the cardinal points and a hemispherical cupola at the crossing point. Unlike the other cross-shaped churches on the Island, the cupola is invisible from the outside, as it is hidden by a dome over which there is a pyramid roof. The eastern arm ends with an apse that has a small cross-shaped window, while another rectangular room was added to the western arm- in a subsequent construction phase - and also has a small apse facing east. Inside, you will notice the dome and the barrel roof over the arms. You will also be attracted by traces of painting on a wall of the part that was added: they have been interpreted as a portrayal of the baptism of Jesus and, therefore, it is possible to speculate that the added room served as a baptistery.
The surrounding area has traces of human presence dating back to prehistoric times and antiquity: a few dozen metres from the sanctuary, to the east, you will notice the ruins of a nuraghe, while the remains of a Roman necropolis extend around the church. Today, you can easily get to Santa Maria Iscalas by car, along a road that runs alongside the Nuragic area of Aidu and Corruoe. The site gets its name from the two nuraghi included within it along with a Giants’ Tomb and a village. The nuraghe Aidu is partially underground and was probably a complex type of nuraghe, while the single-tower Corruoe was built on a hill in visual contact with the first. The Giants’ Tomb has an architraved entrance, which leads into a long burial chamber, where you will notice some stone slabs from the original roof.
Above Cossoine and Mount Sa Costanza, there is a higher elevation, Mount Traessu, made of basaltic rocks perforated by numerous caves and gorges covered in woods. You will be able to explore the paths and admire enchanting views, especially to the north-west, of the majestic Valley of the Nuraghi.