Inside the cemetery walls, at the eastern exit of the residential area of Galtellì, you will see a high bell tower on the right. It is part of the complex of San Pietro, once the bishopric of the small village in Bassa Baronìa, transferred to Nuoro in 1496. Of the three buildings of the medieval diocese, the square-section bell tower may have been built in the late sixteenth century over an older tower and the large Romanesque cathedral remained unfinished, while the other church, perhaps early medieval, smaller and originally with one nave, was then enlarged to include three naves.
Around 1090, construction began on the large Romanesque church, which was to serve as the cathedral of the diocese of Galtellum. The small church may have already existed, but was unsuitable for hosting the bishop’s throne. In 1138, the diocese fell under the control of the archbishopric of Pisa: due to dependence on the Pisans and lack of funds, the works were suspended. The cathedral was to be an imposing building, but only the northern side of the hall, the transept and the oriented apse were built. Two bishop’s tombs were placed in the external walls. Following the abandonment of the construction site, the bishop continued to reside in the smaller church, which was decorated and ennobled along all the walls with frescoes by painters from Umbria and Lazio in the first decades of the 13th century, a series depicting stories from the Old and New Testaments. They have resurfaced thanks to recent restoration work: today you can admire them in all their beauty. To upgrade the church to the ‘episcopal’ rank, the layout was enlarged to three naves and the northern side of the hall, the northern arm of the transept and the eastern end of the southern one were raised, while the apse was rebuilt. The external surfaces are made of local stone. The light spreads through arched single-lancet windows that open into the apse and into an arm of the transept.
From the former cathedral, you can continue your journey along the paved streets of an extraordinarily devout village: in the space of about one square kilometre, you will come across five churches, including several architectural jewels, such as the church of the Santissimo Crocifisso (Holy Crucifix). Then there are three more in the countryside in the direction of Mount Tuttavista, where you can combine a cultural visit with a hike through nature: from the top, you can enjoy breathtaking views.