Discovering the heart of Sardinia
From September to december, for 15 weekends, 31 Nuorese centers will enliven the 'Autunno in Barbagia 2025', where authentic and traditional knowledge and flavours are protagonists
Skilled hands embroider clothes and rugs on frames, make su filindeu and other traditional pasta and decorate su pani pintau, those of sos maistos carefully craft ceramic vases, add intarsia to arresolzas and create filigree jewels. In the kitchen of the cortes su carasau are slipped into the oven and pan’e saba, pistiddu and durchicheddos are stuffed. Woodworkers cut the wood to build sas cascias, ironmongers skilfully hammer their wares, farmers crush freshly harvested grapes and shepherds make ricotta cheese. Meanwhile, guests leaning out over the belvedere sample tasty nibbles with full-bodied wine. And they chat to craftsmen, learning about the traditions of the past. Autumn in Barbagia is a trip into the “heart” of Sardinia, an itinerant exhibition of authentic traditions of the Barbagia area. For four months, weekends will see cultural, artisanal traditions and local food and wine showcased. All within the houses “a corte” in villages and towns. Each community with its own speciality.
One starts at Bitti, the homeland of canto a Tenore, a UNESCO heritage. Here the Nuragic civilisation built a unique monument: the sanctuary-village Romanzesu. Then Oliena: its warm hospitality will take you to discover places that are preserved in time and old churches, textiles and filigree jewellery, pecorino and Nepente. One then moves onto Lodine, land of woods, springs and natural monuments, and Sarule, famous for its fine colourful rugs. The following weekend, three towns are on show: Austis, a town where the skills and traditions of neighbouring areas meet; Dorgali - where the mountains of the Supramonte meet the crystal-clear water of the coastal village of Cala Gonone: you will discover an exceptional variety of landscapes and attractions - and Orani, the land of skilled artisans, great artists and intellectuals. Three more towns come as protagonists during the first weekend of October. Lula, lying at the feet of the huge chalky Monte Albo, the site of prehistoric treasures, industrial archaeology and ancient churches; Orotelli, the land of sos cambales, traditional handmade leather boots, and Meana Sardo, a village full of legends on the janas, with arched front doors and Spanish-style window frames.
October continues with Tonara, the village of nougat and cowbells (sonaggias), a place to enjoy walks in age-old woods; Lollove, whose aura of mystery and surreal silence has inspired many great writers; Onanì, where, next to the Santu Pretu nuraghe, the church of San Pietro was built in the 11th century, and Gavoi, a village nestled between mountains and the lake of Gusana. Writers and artists perform on the balconies of its stone houses during the Island of Stories festival. The second half of the month welcomes the natural wonders of Orgosolo: the su Suercone chasm and the canyon Gorropu. Murales decorate its houses, creating an open-air museum. At Sorgono, you will discover the extraordinary line of menhirs of Biru e’ Concas. The immense natural heritage of Belvì unfolds between chalky tacchi and Gennargentu. It is the town of is caschettes, delicious cakes for brides. October ends with the carnival masks of Boes and Merdules of Ottana, another place that is famous for its artisanal traditions. During the same weekend the architectural jewels of the village of graduates, Olzai, are on display.
November starts with Desulo, that excels in textile craftsmanship, especially finely embroidered shawls. Then Mamoiada: here you will enjoy the intense scent of the vines. It is the land of wine, that will share with you the ancestral rites of Mamuthones and Issohadores. On foot, riding bicycles or on horseback, you will discover the paths of the shepherds. At Ovodda untouched nature, clean air and a healthy climate make this the “village of centenarians”. A town symbolising culture and tradition, Nuoro is the Athens of Sardinia. You will enjoy a cultural itinerary around the town's museums, overlooked by mount Ortobene. At Tiana, genuine products and a sense of community contribute to a healthy and lengthy life. It is famous for its mills and fulling-mills where orbace, Sardinian coarse woollen cloth, is made. In the second half of November it is the turn of the colours and light of Atzara. Hiding in a labyrinth of alleys, you will find medieval houses with façades sculpted by sos picapedres. You gaze onto endless vineyards and cherry trees that have inspired many artists. During the same days, it is also the turn of and Ollolai, that according to legend was the abode of Hospito, the king of Barbagia (6th century). Admire its asphodel baskets woven by local women, and s’istrumpa, a form of wrestling perhaps of Nuragic origin.
The wealth of Funtana Raminosa lies behind the history of Gadoni: the Nuragic civilisation extracted copper here, the Cartaginians and the Romans created mines that were re-used in modern times. Following the paths, surrounded by mountains and forests, you will discover magical sights such as the small s’Istiddiosa waterfall. At Oniferi you will be impressed by the popular tradition of canto a tenore that ranges from religious solemnity to romantic melancholy. Nature and archaeology mark out December. For the Feast of the Immaculate Conception, it is time to turn to the highest village on the island, Fonni, a ski resort where each season has a distinctive colour: peonies, dog roses and purple foxglove frame autumn. The hydraulic engineering of Gremanu and the necropolis of Madau are the main Nuragic sites. The tour ends at Orune, with its cork harvest and an extraordinary concentration of prehistoric sites, including the spectacular Nuragic sacred well su Tempiesu, and in in Ortueri, where the Mui Muscas park, the kingdom of the Sardinian ass, and the very tall bell tower of the church of San Nicolò shine.
