After surviving centuries and resisting time, it remains in excellent condition thanks to various renovations and is now home to a legacy crafted from techniques and know-how passed on through generations to become a symbol of Sardinian craftsmanship. Castelsardo sits perched on the top of a hill over the water, much the same as it must have originally been, and continues life as the Museum of Mediterranean Weaving. Its rooms display the work of craftsmen from all over Sardinia and the Mediterranean basin, items made using the ancient techniques of weaving with vegetable fibre.
The fortress was probably built during the course of the 13th century by the noble Doria family, who named it Castelgenovese. Its function was to protect the family’s holdings on the island and watch over maritime activity between Sardinia and Genoa. For several years it was the residence of Brancaleone Doria and Eleonora d’Arborea until 1448, when it fell into the hands of the Aragonese. The Spanish conquerors turned it into a defensive fort complete with towers and bastions, and with constant modifications to ensure its continued military efficiency. Its new name, Castel Aragonese, stuck until the 18th century when it was taken over by the Savoy dynasty, who named the castle and the village within its walls Castelsardo.
The views from the castle walls span the sea to the Asinara coast on the west, and to Santa Teresa Gallura in the east. You can walk over the original ramparts and see the fortified bastions and draw bridge. Inside you will visit the nine rooms spread out over the two storeys of the museum. The exhibits include recreations of the work environment and techniques used in basket making – both cross and spiral – with vegetable fibre, to items used in everyday life for the storage of grain, for fishing and raising herds, and objects imbued with magical and religious significance. You’ll be surprised by su fassoi, a typical boat made with marsh reeds, rush ropes and cane nails used by fishermen on the lakes of Cabras and Santa Giusta. Basket weaving is without doubt the most typical castellanese craft resulting in all types of baskets and sieves.
The art of weaving remains a mainstay on the streets of the village. You will find weavers, the custodians of centuries-old traditions, use palm leaves, straw and raffia to make items they proudly display for visitors. It’s a fascinating blend of tradition and innovation.
Castelsardo also boasts many architectural gems. You can visit the cathedral of sant'Antonio Abate, with its belfry perched over the water, the Church of Santa Maria delle Grazie and palazzo La Loggia. And then there’s the sea, with Marina di Castelsardo and Lu Bagnu beach, just 2 km from town: flat rocks, soft sand and crystal clear water protected by Mediterranean greenery.
